MONTANA: Glacier National Park — Day 3
Glacier National Park Series
- Day 1
- Day 2
- Day 3 ← You’re here!
- Day 4
- Day 5 and Sample Itinerary
Day 3
Many Glaciers (this time, for real)
Extra determined to make it to Iceberg Lake in the Many Glaciers area, we woke up at the ungodly hour of 6AM, packed up, checked out, and headed north once more.
Montana, but at 7 AM
The weather originally was overcast and gloomy, with remnants of the storm that passed through the night before, but slowly cleared up.
mmmm countryside
We made it to the Many Glaciers Entrance and was let in (hooray)! Even though it was 8AM by the time we arrived, I guess the remoteness of the entrance means people all need some time to arrive. Parking wasn’t particularly difficult this early at the Swiftcurrent lodge and Iceberg Lake trailheads. We then…took a quick nap in the car first (hah).
Swiftcurrent is the start for not just the Iceberg Lake trailhead, but also Grinell Glacier as well. Both of these are highly recommended by everyone we’ve talked to. Grinell Glacier is currently the most accessible of the two dozen or so glaciers remaining in the park - reachable via a 14 mile roundtrip hike. (The rest of the hundred or so glaciers that existed when the park was first discovered…well, we know the story there.) Iceberg Lake is also a nontrivial hike of about 11 miles roundtrip.
apparently bears like these flowers
The trail starts with a pretty quick ascent initially, but then levels out to be a gentle incline for nearly the rest of the way. A good portion is exposed as you hike through the alpine meadows, with stunning views of Swiftcurrent Mountain and Mt. Wilbur. We passed through a patch of forest before reaching Ptarmigan Falls. Funnily enough, you can’t really get a good view of the waterfalls itself as there are trees in your line of pass, but you can definitely hear it. There is a small area to rest next to the creek, which a lot of people have done.
The trail splits for people heading toward the Ptarmigan Wall and onwards. We kept to the left for Iceberg Lake. The trail follows the side of the mountain a bit more before descending to Iceberg Lake.
where is the lake
ah, there is the lake
Photos don’t quite to it justice, really. Iceberg Peak towers some 3000 feet above the lake, so the whole sense of the landscape is grand. Definitely well worth the hike. The combination of the light blue of the lake, the large fields of colorful wildflowers, and the imposing, towering Ptarmigan wall is simply spectacular. Even though this trail is very popular, it was still quiet at the lake itself (though that may also be because we started later at about 9:30AM). Due to the shape and height of the Ptarmigan Wall, the lake doesn’t often get direct sunshine, hence the accumulation of snow and ice that gives the lake its name.
the rangers noted there’s less ice than usual at this time of year
We made our way back to Swiftcurrent via the same path, looked around the shop at the lodge, then made the two and half hour drive to West Glacier. Turn out that even though the distance is just over 50 miles, the winding mountain roads really extend the time needed to traverse the park. We did make a stop to get more ice cream though….it couldn’t be helped.
| Iceberg Lake Trail @ Glacier National Park | |
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| Review | Not particularly difficult, but long (which, I guess, makes it difficult.) You get stunning views the whole way, but you don’t really see Iceberg Lake until it’s basically right there. Of course, Iceberg Lake is beautiful as well - a worthwhile hike all in all. |
| What to Expect | Other than a steeper initial ascent, the trail climbs gently but steadily throughout its nearly six mile length. There isn't much cover for the first and last third of the trail, but you walk through a dense forest near Ptarmigan Falls. Bring water and a good hiking stick! Runoff from the mountains can create puddles and streams on the trail, so good hiking boots are a big help. |
| Notes | This is peak bear country, so check in with the rangers before starting - the whole area may be closed from bear activity. Parking can be difficult - the trailhead itself has maybe 10 spaces, but you can opt to park at the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn instead. Arrive before 8AM if possible to get a spot. |
| Verdict: 5/5 — Bergs, not burgs. Very beautiful! though it reminds you that we’re melting the glaciers. | |
Food
| Glacier Highland Restaurant @ West Glacier, MT 12555 US-2, West Glacier, MT 59936 |
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| Review | Pretty tasty, but also kind of expensive. A little more restaurant-like than Johnson’s, but a similar kind of menu (with some Indian entrees as well? Weird, but it tasted good.) It’s quiet, clean, and near the park entrance. Service was pretty quick. |
| Verdict: 4/5 — Menu choices a little quirky, and prices aren’t the best, but, it’s right outside the park entrance (and it tastes fine). | |
Lodging
| Evergreen Motel @ Coram, MT 10159 Hwy 2 E, Coram, MT 59913 |
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| Review | It’s…okay. As in it definitely has the old-timey, rustic feel (it was first opened in the 1940s). We opted for a studio cabin since we wanted two queen beds, but those are just manufactured homes up top. Not the cleanest, but decently comfortable, and Internet worked fine as there is no cell signal otherwise. It’s affordable, though. |
| Verdict: 3/5 — It’s fine, but I would also probably try staying somewhere else in the future. | |