Shusta said, “I like trains let’s take trains in Japan”

choo choo train shusta. choosta.

So we decided to make our way up to the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (立山黒部アルペンルート). After all, it takes all sorts of trains to get through there.

Trains aside, the Tateyama Kurobe route is well known for having gorgeous views and a snow wall that can be up to 60 feet tall when the road is plowed and cleared of snow. While the western section from Tateyama to Lake Kurobe (黒部湖) was built for tourism, the eastern section from Lake Kurobe to Ogisawa (扇沢) was built to facilitate the construction of the Kurobe Dam. Nowadays, the entire route is dedicated for tourists.

While it’s possible (and many people do) a one day trip through the entire route, we decided to take it easier and split it into a two day one night trip. Looking back, breaking it apart that way was definitely worth it, as it not only gave us time to explore the surroundings, but also avoid peak times as everyone tries to do the same thing at the same time.

Map of main POIs across the Tateyama Kurobe Route

Link to Google Maps of roughly the same area

Important notes about the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route

  • You can expect crowds, especially when the snow wall walk is active, and on weekends. This means you should factor in delays into your schedule if you miss your connection due to things being too full.
  • The whole route, without stopping, takes about 6 hours. Obviously, that sounds like no fun, so it’s highly recommended to stay at least one night while traveling the route.
  • If you’re traveling the entire route, consider getting the JR Tateyama Kurobe Option Ticket, available for 9800 JPY per person instead of the full price of 12460 JPY. This covers the entire fare from Toyama to Nagano, or vice versa over five days. Do note that this pass is only good one way.
  • Like any other high-altitude areas, weather can change quickly on a whim. Prepare layered clothings appropriately.
  • There is a special baggage forwarding service for convenience.. This service is unfortunately cancelled for 2020 due to COVID-19. Alternatively, you can leave your luggage at a station locker in Tokyo (or other major city) if you plan to be back within 3 days.

Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route

  • Day 1 ← You’re here!
  • Day 2

Day 1

Getting There

To be quite frank, we spent most of our time getting to our ryokan at Midagahara on our first day.

From Shinjuku Station, we made our way north via the Saikyō Line (埼京線) to Ōmiya (大宮) caught a Hakutaka shinkansen from Ōmiya to Toyama (富山).

Ōmiya (大宮) → Toyama (富山) (23 Nov 2019)
Ōmiya (大宮) (11:50) → Toyama (富山) (13:57)
2h 7m via Hakutaka 561

In between, we got a quick lunch at Keishouan (鶏匠庵) in the Ōmiya Station Lumine, where their special was oyakudon. It was decent, but nothing particularly memorable.

The Shinkansen ride up was smooth and without issues, and with ample time to transfer to the Toyama Chiho Line, we decided to take photos with the displays the Toyama City tourism board set up. (The staff saw us take photos and gave us small paper lanterns as a souvenir).

celebrating the start of the reiwa era

We also went to the mall next door and picked up a sake as well as “umesky”. It is exactly what the portmanteau is: plum wine and japanese whiskey. It’s…interesting. I actually kind of like it, but it remains devisive among my friends.

dranks

dentetsu toyama station. v. old school.

On my first time to Toyama in 2016, I haven’t taken a train before with unmanned stops (i.e. you pick up a ticket on the train itself and pay the conductor as necessary). That was a fun time. The Toyama Chiho Railway also runs much more infrequently, with a train at most twice an hour. Trains are also much older too (but still very clean). Wild. In any case, it’s roughly an hour ride from Toyama to Tateyama Station.

Toyama City quickly falls away to suburbs, then the countryside, before making its way up the foothills of Tateyama

my travel companions totally love the stereotypical tourist photos.

From Tateyama Station, we exchanged our option ticket for another voucher that is good for the rest of the Alpine Route. We boarded a funicular up to Bijodaira (美女平), where buses run every thirty minutes toward Murodō. The route also has a stamp rally! (I’m a sucker fo stamp rallies.)

steep funicular is steep

It’s a forty minute ride to Midagahara (弥陀ヶ原), and the bus plays pre-recorded explanations of sights along the way. This road used to be open to the general public, but out of environmental and crowding concerns, it was closed to all traffic except delivery vehicles, buses, construction, and special permitted cars. We passed by a viewpoint for Shomyō Falls (称名滝), the tallest waterfall in Japan some 350 meters in height. Otherwise, we pushed the stop request at Midagahara and made a short walk to the hotel to check in.

Midagahara (弥陀ヶ原)

hello hotel. the poles are there to help signify where the road is (the snow can get that tall)

The Midagahara Hotel was originally built in 1954 with the opening of the first portion of the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route, and was torn down and rebuilt in the 90s. While plain in appearance, its goal was to minimize its visual and environmental impact while also being built to withstand the 3 to 5 meters of snow that can accumulate on its rooftop. While most rooms are western style, there are a few that are Japanese styled - similar to those in a ryokan.

While walking in, we noticed a small sign that says “Free sledding!” Always being down for free things, we checked in, dropped off our things, then returned outside. The hotel provided boots and sleds that we can borrow for free, but not gloves. Two other guests were also there, and us, being Americans, embarassed ourselves by flying out of control on such a small hill.

Okay, dumb antics, aside, we tried to explore the surroundings, but most of the wetlands was closed due to the snowdrift (which is fair. falling into unstable snow does not sound fun.) However, the view down the mountain is very good, especially in sunset.

golden hour is good civilization

The hotel included a delicious dinner (and dessert!!), so we went to that, as well as soaked in the baths to relax.

Food

鶏匠庵 @ Saitama City, Saitama Prefecture, Japan
〒330-0853 埼玉県さいたま市大宮区 錦町６３０ルミネ大宮2 4F
Review It’s a yakitori shop inside Ōmiya Station, so we figured it’s a safe bet. We seemed to be a bit early for the lunch hour, so it wasn’t quite full yet. We ordered their special oyakudon, and while it took a little longer than expected to come out, the dish was pretty good. Personally, I’m not the biggest fan of chicken liver and gizzard though, so I did not enjoy it as much as I would have expected, but overall it was satisfying.
Verdict: 4/5 — Chicken, egg, rice. Good.

Lodging

弥陀ヶ原ホテル @ Tateyama, Toyama Prefecture, Japan
〒930-1412 富山県中新川郡立山町 弥陀ヶ原
Review While not particularly fancy (and a bit expensive for what you get), you’re really paying for location and convenience. That said, the rooms are comfortable, the views could be quite good (though it’s really a gacha), and the food is delicious. The public bath is sizeable, and the staff are friendly and try their best when working foreigners. Compared to any other concessionaire running in a national park in the US, this blows all of them out of the water. Yes, the rooms do feel a bit tired, but honestly, it’s fine.
Verdict: 5/5 — Comfortable rooms, nice large bath, good food, amazing views. Very good.

Day 2

Day 2 continues here!